Introduction: Movie projector - LED Array Rebirth

This project is to upgrade and amend an 8mm cine projector away replacing the incandescent bulb with a LED array.
Aside from the amusive of experimenting with LED arrays this fancy enabled Pine Tree State to convert roughly 8mm cine with less flicker and no risk of destroying the motion-picture show by the heat from the bulb. (Being a Brit I shall use the term bulb sooner than lamp)

Supplies

LED array 30-50 watts with LED driver
45x45mm heatsink
Suddenly part of 13mm atomic number 29 water pipe
Redundant bulb (for the base only)

Step 1: Study the Original Pure Source

This bulb/lamp is typical of many cine and lantern slide projectors of the ERA. Aside from beingness expensive to replace they obviously kick out a lot of heat. Anyone who has used a projector knows that the film is destroyed quite an quick if the film is stopped for to a greater extent than a few seconds

Ill-trea 2: Let's Look at the Light bulb

This bulb is a Projector Bulb type A1-17 8v 50w with a P30s Base. It doesn't matter what light bulb typecast it is. Its's only]y used for the base

Step 3: This Is the Base

This is the theme. It's an easy style to mount the LED array and its heatsink

Step 4: The LED Array, to Be Victimised As the Light

This is the LED array with its driver. I chose a 30 James Watt device bought online. The choice of power will be determined away how large a heatsink can constitute fitted.

Step 5: Add the Heatsink

The heatsink was bought online. Information technology came from an old PC. The choice of heatsink is determined by the disposable space

Step 6: A Look at the Location of the Deficient Source

THis just shows the space for the heatsource. This will be different for different projectors

Step 7: Fitting the Heatsink

The heatsink is drilled with four holes to match those in the surround of the Array. I ordered a set of lights-out to cut the jazz duds. It's wise to add together some heatsink paripinnate.

Stair 8: Fitting the Illegitimate to the Heatsink

The base, less the glass neatly fits a piece of copper piss pipe. I splayed unitary end and soldered the past to the base. I also trimmed off the wires from the center of the base so that the lamp supply doesn't orbit the heatsink

Step 9: A Secpond View of the Fixture

Here yuo can visualise the splayed end of the tabor pipe

Step 10: Drilling the Heatsink

The Heatsink is now abroach with four M4 threaded holes

Step 11: Here's the Array Fitted to the Heatsink and Wired Up

As the title says hither's the array fitted to the heatsink and connected to the driver. The lead solder to the cardinal ears but you need to use a persistence tester to specify which is +ve and which -ve. Its not obvious

Step 12: Try-on the Heatsink to the Base

I've missed a telecasting. Two of the splayed sections of the tabor pipe are trained and the heatsink also to accept two crews

Step 13: The LED Array Powered Up

This is the LED powered up. Put on't look directly at it!

Step 14: The Temperature After 10 Minutes

The heatsink shouldn't get beyond 85deg. But this was without any cooling gentle wind

Whole tone 15: The LED Array With Its Base

This time shows how the base is fitted to the heatsink..I used self-tapping screws into the heatsink

Pace 16: The LED Set out in situ

This shows the Array and heatsink in situ ready to be powered leading

Step 17: LED Align Hopped-up Up

This hows the Light in situ but the cover needs to be fitted so that the telecine is non adversely affected by the vagabon light

Tread 18: The Mods to the Cover

So as to allow the wires to the array to choke through the cover I cut a slot in the bottom of the cover.

Step 19: The Address in Place

This shows the cross in localise with the Light-emitting diode powered up. The cover doesn't fit perfectly but well enough

Step 20: The Final Result

This is a short clip of one of the reels. It's not a professional job but information technology's sufficiency to decide what of the footage is worth spending more time and money happening

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